Imagine a world dominated by red. No matter where you look, your gaze is met by sand. Not the sand we know from the beaches, but a rolling sea of vast dunes. The landscape is ever-changing. The relentless wind shifts and shapes the sandbanks in just a few days. You might think I’m describing the harsh terrain of Mars, but the reality is less dramatic. Our adventure unfolds in the desert of Oman, which in less than 24 hours completely swept us off our feet.
Starry Domes
Oman entered the picture as an unexpected detour during our stay in the United Arab Emirates. Without really knowing much about the country, we suddenly found ourselves with two plane tickets to Muscat. I took it upon myself to explore the possibilities of visiting Wahiba Sands. The 12,500 km² desert offered countless opportunities.
One experience stood out from the rest – Glamping. For those unfamiliar with the term, it simply means glamorous camping. After countless nights on a semi-deflated air mattress in a sweltering tent at various music festivals, the prospect of air conditioning and a private bathroom was particularly enticing – especially when temperatures often exceeded 40°C.
We settled on “Starry Domes”. The camp had just opened and consisted of only five dome-shaped tents. Activities like Dune Bashing and camel rides sealed the deal. I booked a tent and began counting the days until departure. When Saturday finally arrived, we set off in our newly rented car. Despite dents and duct tape, the little KIA ran like a dream, and the air conditioning worked flawlessly. The GPS guided us through the most beautiful mountain scenery. Mountains towered on both sides of the road, emphasizing our smallness in their grandeur. We grabbed lunch on the go, and for just 50 cents, we satisfied our hunger (and then some).
The mountains gradually leveled out, and soon we could glimpse the desert on the horizon. The butterflies in my stomach began to stir. Perhaps it was digestion kicking in, but one thing was certain, I was truly excited. I wasn’t the only one feeling the anticipation. Rasmus, only having a rough idea about the trip, started to catch my evident enthusiasm.
Welcome to Mars
It was two little kids with shining eyes who were ready for pick-up in the town of Bidiyah. The town is right next to the desert, and since our car didn’t have four-wheel drive, we decided to leave it behind. Our driver picked us up in a white truck and we embarked on the final 20 kilometers of our journey. Within minutes, we found ourselves in the desert. Even though there were tracks to follow, it quickly became evident that leaving our rental behind was the right decision. The driver confidently (and without seatbelt) navigated us up and down the dunes, avoiding wandering camels along the way. The adventure had truly begun!
After a half-hour drive, we passed under a sign labeled “Starry Domes”. We were on top of a massive sand dune with a stunning view of, well, sand. The camp was the only settlement for miles and was unlike anything we’d ever seen. The dome-shaped tents could easily have been a part of Ridley Scott’s film “The Martian”. So much, in fact, that it wouldn’t have surprised us if Matt Damon stepped out of one.
We continued to the furthest corner of the camp, where we were dropped off in front of our new abode. Before the driver left, he informed us that he would pick us up again in a few hours for the planned Dune Bashing session. The car rolled away, leaving us alone in the desert. Rasmus had the honor of opening the door to our very own Mars habitat.
Dune Bashing
The place certainly did not disappoint. On the contrary, it exceeded all expectations, and I had even scoured every corner of Instagram in search of pictures. In front of us was a spacious open room with a massive bed, a small sitting area, a kitchenette, and, the cherry on top, a standalone bathtub. The furniture was arranged facing a large panoramic window on the tent’s side, and above the bed, we had an unobstructed view of the sky. At the back of the tent, there was a separate bathroom equipped with all essentials, including a bidet shower which is almost considered mandatory in this region.
We grabbed a quick afternoon snack of chocolate cookies and a bag of Chips Oman, after which we were ready to explore the camp. With renewed energy, we let our inner children out to play. We raced, laughing, up and down the dunes, as the silky sand swirled around our legs. The wind quickly erased the tracks we had left, and the desert appeared untouched once more.
Just before sunset, we set out for some Dune Bashing. The term refers to a special kind of desert driving. Simply put, it involves racing over the vast sand dunes. We drove up and down 100-meter-high crests with the sand whizzing past our windows. The driver, still not wearing a seatbelt, seemed utterly unfazed, even when steering the car up the steepest slopes – a feat we hadn’t imagined possible.
Chips Oman has not only achieved cult status in Oman but also in the Emirates. From shawarma to sushi – the lightly smoked chip is everywhere!
Under the desert stars
After an abundant dinner consisting of local dishes, our host paid us a visit. He invited us for tea in the communal area, and we immediately accepted. One of the things we love about traveling is the encounter with other cultures. We spent a few hours in the company of our host, his friends, and some of the other guests. Arabic poems were recited, traditions were discussed, and we compared different countries’ openness to “foreigners”.
Darkness deepened, and the stars grew brighter. Unfortunately, the moon was so bright and full that the Milky Way wasn’t visible to us. Our host pointed out the North Star, which has guided bedouins through the desert for centuries. Saturn and Jupiter were also visible in the sky above us.
We bid our host goodnight and walked back across the warm desert sand. The duvet was placed in the hammock in front of our tent, and then it was time for stargazing. A sense of calm settled, and we both felt an intense sense of relaxation. Obligations, tasks, and work suddenly felt light-years away. We felt as if we were on a distant planet, where time stood still, and silence prevailed.
After several hours and numerous shooting stars, we saw the moon set. We decided it was time to hit the sack, so we’d be ready for the next day’s activities. Even though it was late, we set the alarm for 5:40 AM. Our tent faced east, and we had a date with the sunrise
Pancakes and camel rides
When the alarm sounded, our eyes were heavy as lead. We were utterly exhausted, but the view awaiting us was magical. From our bed, we watched the sun paint the desert in hues of red, orange, and purple. A new day had dawned, but we weren’t quite ready to embrace it. We drew the curtains, and our weary eyes closed once more.
A few hours later, the sound of an engine awoke us. Breakfast had been set up on the small table outside our tent. Dressed in our robes, we sneaked out into the morning sun to inspect the treats. I was over the moon. In front of us was a stack of small Emirati pancakes, which we eagerly dipped in both Labneh (strained Greek yogurt) and honey. I’d love to start all my mornings that way. The meal was completed with freshly brewed Arabic coffee – Gahwa. Though the coffee is light, it’s balanced by the warm taste of cardamom.
Our stay at the camp was coming to an end, but there was still one item on our list left unchecked. Full and satisfied, we each mounted our camels to embrace the new day. The swaying motions, the majestic desert, and the sun’s warm rays were the perfect ending to a perfect trip. Even though we hadn’t landed on Mars, the red world beneath our feet had taken us on a journey beyond time and space.
