When we arrived in Dominica, it felt like stepping into a fairy tale world. The island is known for its magnificent nature and undisturbed beauty, but it also possesses a rich history that stretches back to the heyday of the pirates in the Caribbean. The romantic notion of pirate life and hidden treasures has over time been immortalized in books, movies, and TV series. “Pirates of the Caribbean” is among our own favorites, and several iconic scenes were filmed in Dominica. We’ve already shared our experience of hiking to the Boiling Lake, but our visit to the Caribbean island wouldn’t be complete without following in Jack Sparrow’s footsteps.
The golden age of piracy
The colonization of the New World in the 16th century was a tempting opportunity for fortune seekers of that era. Even then, “The American Dream” existed, and many crossed the Atlantic hoping to find a better future. Pirates were a diverse bunch, consisting of people from all social classes, including former slaves and even aristocrats who had lost their status or wealth. The flourishing trade and the massive presence of merchant ships fostered the golden age of piracy. The heavily laden ships were slow and poorly protected, making them attractive targets for pirates.
However, the pirates were not just driven by a sense of adventure. They wished to challenge the social and economic structures in Europe. Many pirates were former sailors or merchants who had been forced to work under poor conditions with low pay. Piracy became a rebellion against this injustice. It was common among pirates to have a code. This code ensured that everyone shared in the loot and simultaneously protected the crew’s rights. Historians believe that many of these codes reflected a democratic mindset that was ahead of its time.
Engulfed by internal disputes, the European countries didn’t send much aid to their overseas colonies. The lack of defense made it difficult to maintain sovereignty, and many territories changed ownership multiple times. Dominica was one of these territories, which over time became the center of a power struggle between France and England.
The end of an era
As the economic and political situation in the Caribbean became more stable, life for the pirates gradually became more difficult. The internal conflicts between colonial powers decreased, and their hostilities could no longer be exploited for profit. The British fleet, in particular, had a strong presence in the Caribbean Sea. Several hundred pirates were caught and executed – some with help from former pirates who, in return, received full pardons.
The heyday of the pirates was over, but their presence in the Caribbean has had a significant influence on the region’s culture and economy. Today, the history of the pirates is a crucial part of the Caribbean tourist industry, and many visitors come to the islands to experience the places where their adventures unfolded. We were no exception when we set out to find anything that even slightly hinted at pirates in Dominica.
Despite the island being alternately ruled and controlled by France and England, there were many areas in Dominica that were difficult to monitor. The many mountains, dense rainforests, and steep cliff faces made it challenging for the European colonizers to patrol the land. The island was therefore an ideal hideout for both pirates and privateers who had plenty of opportunities to hide themselves and their cargo.
A legend from Dominica tells that a Spanish trade fleet laden with 3 million pesos sank off the coast of Dominica. Some even claim that the treasure is still out there somewhere. Opinions are divided on whether it lies on the seabed or if the native population hid the treasure on the island. Whether it’s myth or reality, we do not know, as the treasure has never been found. Even the most fantastical stories often have a grain of truth in them, so who knows? One thing is certain: It’s a brilliant way to attract tourists to the island, especially when it’s also known for another pirate adventure.
“If you compare the market value of silver today and the weight of a single peso, the value of the lost treasure would be equivalent to around 60 million US dollars.”
Pirates of the Carribbean
Back in the 2000s, film director Gore Verbinski and his crew headed to Dominica. His first film in the Pirates of the Caribbean series had been a great success, and now they were seeking new surroundings for Jack Sparrow’s continued adventures. Although the island receives some cruise ships, the airport can only handle small propeller planes from neighboring islands. Therefore, the film crew found an unspoiled and raw nature. Resorts had not yet made their arrival, which is a rarity among the Caribbean islands. The crew described Dominica as one of the most beautiful islands they had ever visited, and Gore Verbinski stated that it was like stepping back in time.
The filming of the second and third movies in the series had a significant impact on the inhabitants of Dominica. Many new jobs were created, and the accompanying film tourism gave a substantial boost to the island’s economy. The film production also influenced the island’s infrastructure. To accommodate the needs of the film crew, new buildings, roads, and bridges were constructed. We can only confirm the sparse infrastructure, where it can take an hour to drive 30 km on a paved country road.
Like many others before us, we set out to explore the various locations used during the film shoots. I have already mentioned one of these places in the post about the Boiling Lake, and now we will return once more to Titou Gorge
Titou Gorge
Titou Gorge is a gorge located in Morne Trois Pitons National Park, and the name means “little throat” in Creole. The gorge is another product of Dominica’s volcanic activity. The high cliff sides are shaped by melted lava, which, upon cooling, has not only formed steep walls but also small open chambers. Over time, cool springs from the mountains have found their way to the gorge. The small streams gather into a roaring waterfall, constantly supplying the gorge with a stream of water.
After our hike, we returned to Titou Gorge and took our time exploring it. Life jackets are mandatory during the swim in the deep water of the cave, where you won’t find footing until you reach the small waterfall. During our holiday in Mexico in 2022, we learned to wear our life jackets upside down when we floated around in a river under similar circumstances. We looked like two adult babies wearing giant diapers, but it was all worth it. Instead of having a stiff vest squeezed up around our ears, we were instead carried away by the gentle stream in a comfortable, floating chair.
Inside the gorge
Of course, we had already seen “Pirates of the Caribbean – Dead Man’s Chest” in preparation for today’s film spot. We therefore immediately recognized the gorge as the place where Orlando Bloom and a small group of pirates take refuge from a group of cannibals. The many bends and narrow passages of the gorge provide them shelter from the shower of arrows shot at them.
As we lazily floated around in the cool water, we were once again amazed by the stunning nature of Dominica. The only way into the gorge is to swim through a narrow entrance flanked by volcanic rock walls. It felt as if we were saying goodbye to the real world and instead entering into the pirates’ universe.
The top of the rock walls is surrounded by the dense vegetation of the rainforest, only sporadically revealing the blue sky. We were completely hidden from the outside world in this little oasis, bathed in a greenish glow from above. At the far end of the gorge, we could finally touch the bottom. We cautiously moved over slippery rocks to an almost circular room, surrounded by the solidified lava. Here the water reached our chests, and we were enchanted by the roar of the waterfall.
Rasmus, of course, had to try to swim under it and therefore positioned himself right under its jets. However, he had not quite expected the force behind the volume of water and lost his glasses to the depths. Fortunately, we managed to salvage them before the current had pulled them down to the bottom of the gorge – and that without a single scratch.
Batibou Beach
But how did Orlando Bloom’s character, Will Turner, end up in the inner part of the gorge? Well, after hunting for Jack Sparrow, he finds his ship stranded on the coast of an unknown island. The place where the ship is beached is yet another well-known but somewhat hidden place on Dominica. We braved the very uneven and densely vegetated path to Batibou Beach in our 4×4.
The sand on Dominica does not have the coveted white color found on many of the Caribbean’s other islands. Instead, the beaches are colored in shades of black and gray. The dark sand provides the perfect backdrop for a mysterious island inhabited by cannibals. Once again, the island’s many volcanoes play a role, as the sand is colored by the rock type basalt. Basalt is formed when magma solidifies and, as any train enthusiast probably knows, it is used for ballast in railway tracks.
On the beach, we were welcomed by Irma, who owns the beach with her sister. Irma is a trained cook from New York and runs a small beach café on Batibou Beach. We had initially just planned to grab a beer, but it was hard to say no when Irma offered samples of her homemade rum punch. This Caribbean drink is a chapter in itself and almost deserves its own post.
Rum punch is a cocktail found on menus all over the Caribbean. It consists of sugar, rum, and fruit juice. The rum is often infused with a flavor, and the fruit juice is local. Our first encounter with this drink was in Barbados, where we had to dilute it with water a few times because of its strength. Irma had several different variations of the punch, but our two favorites were with coconut milk (if you can call it juice) and hibiscus.
The Indian River
During our stay in Dominica, we stayed in the town of Portsmouth, which was originally the capital of the country. However, the town was founded in a marshy area and was plagued by disease-ridden mosquitoes, so it quickly lost its title. In Portsmouth, you will also find one of Dominica’s 365 rivers, The Indian River. The river flows into the Caribbean Sea and was an important trade route for the native Kalinago people. However, we decided to explore the river for a completely different reason.
A team of pirates, led by none other than Jack Sparrow himself, sailed up this river in “Dead Man’s Chest”. They set out to find the voodoo priestess Tia Dalma, whose hut was located along the river bank, surrounded by dense rainforest. Of course, we wanted to see the hut, and the only way to do it was by rowboat.
Our guide for the day, who went by the name Superman, led us deeper into the wilderness with calm strokes. The river gradually narrowed and was flanked by bwa mang trees, whose giant roots formed complex networks. These trees are also known as dragon’s blood trees, as their resin, with its sticky consistency and bright red color, makes damage to the trunk resemble bleeding wounds.
The open sky was gradually replaced by the crowns of the trees stretching out over the water. Below us, small schools of fish swam in the clear water. Superman pointed out a number of holes along the river bank, which had been dug by crabs of all sizes. The holes completely blended in with the tangled nature and were difficult to spot. The crabs were shy, and we only caught occasional glimpses of them on their way into their holes. One crab, a good 20 cm in size, was hiding among the roots of the bwa mang trees. It was hard not to imagine how painful it would be to get pinched by this bad boy.
Tia Dalma's hut
The river split into two, and Superman rowed us down the left branch, which was narrower and more heavily vegetated than the right one. We were now heading straight for Tia Dalma’s hut, and we immediately understood why the film crew had chosen this location. The area was steeped in mystery and was difficult to navigate for the inexperienced. However, in the glow of the morning sun, the journey was not nearly as gloomy and threatening as in the twilight of the film.
The hut slowly came into view, partially hidden by the surrounding trees. Perched on the bank, it stood as the crown jewel in these strange surroundings. The similarity was unmistakable, but you couldn’t help but notice the use of CGI. The film version was both placed high in a treetop and noticeably larger than the small hut in front of us. Despite these deviations, it was hard to shake the expectation that Tia Dalma would step out onto the small veranda at any moment.
On the way back, we took a detour down the right branch of the river, where we stopped at Cobra’s Bush Bar. The easiest way to get there is by boat. The alternative route on foot leads the brave wanderer through dense bushes along a narrow and winding jungle path. This is also the reason why the bar gets all its supplies by boat. Here we enjoyed a rum punch and played with the sweetest puppies.
Our adventure in Jack Sparrow’s footsteps had come to an end, and we had enjoyed every moment. Once again, Dominica’s unique nature had shown us a whole different world.
